Desert Winds Newsletter - Canyonlands Arches

RAINBOW BRIDGE
Stars, Stone, Stories

- by, Anne Jakle 

The first non-natives who sought out Rainbow Bridge were driven primarily by quests for adventure and notoriety; though some may have had knowledge beforehand that a number of Native American tribes held the site sacred, its fabled spiritual significance certainly didn’t apply to their God.
 Rainbow Bridge Hike Horses
It is noteworthy, then, that references to an inexplicable power, presence, spirituality, or nameless force permeate nearly every written account passed on from early explorers, and each man in his writing grapples for words to explain this thing that moved him, stunned him, and imprinted itself upon his memory. There is no doubt that Rainbow Bridge’s impressive span, which could easily clear the dome of the Capitol Building, would inspire awe in even the most hard-to-impress visitor.  But its draw goes beyond size or science, and everyone from United States presidents to the ancestral Puebloan Native Americans have noticed a sense of sacredness that enshrouds the Bridge, surrounding maze of sandstone canyons, springs, and watchful Navajo Mountain. Malcom Cummings, who accompanied his father on the Cummings-Douglass expedition to Rainbow Bridge that made the first Anglo documented discovery in 1909, is the first to attempt to put the place’s spirit into words, though he doesn’t get very far.  He writes, “It [Rainbow Bridge] stands there defying time, the elements, and man... It is beyond words.”  In 1923, Charles L. Bernheimer tries again to describe the feeling he experienced there in a National Geographic article: “…permeating all, there is a sense of a physical lonesomeness, mingled with an almost constant feeling of the presence of the creator. ”Along with references to “the creator,” speechlessness and lack of rational explanation or quantifiable description is a recurring theme amongst visitors to the Bridge and surrounding Navajo Mountain area. “Nonnezoshe [Rainbow Bridge] awes one into silence,” wrote James Babbit in 1927.  “I don’t know why, but it does.  Perhaps one is impressed there, as in other rare corners of the world, with the near presence of the Master Builder.”  Karla VanderZanden, director of Canyonlands Field Institute (CFI), who has been running trips along the Rainbow Trail to the Bridge since 1988, likened her experience there to falling in love: romance, euphoria, butterflies in the stomach.
Rainbow Bridge Hike with Packstock
Like many before, Ed Kornbrath, CFI participant and webmaster, couldn’t put into words the meaning of the place.  “It brought out emotions—I don’t know why,” he said.  “A lump rose in my throat; there's a spirituality that somehow resides within this landscape.”

Explanations of where the Bridge and its power come from are not easy to come by.  In a later National Geographic article from 1957, Ralph Gray explains how science falls short in this capacity: “There is a school that explains works of art in terms of algebra and trigonometry.  Ted Park and I felt, as we flew away from the world’s largest and most beautifully shaped natural bridge, that the geology and erosion fall as far short in explaining Rainbow’s creation.”

Herman Atene, a Navajo who grew up on the nearby Reservation and has worked as a guide with CFI along the Rainbow Trial for over 15 years, explains the Navajo value for the land: “The earth is not just a series of dramatically poised topographic features that incite the wonder of man and beckon for exploitation, but it is a living, breathing entity in an animate universe.”  Viewing the land in this way, the spirit of the land becomes as complex to quantify or explain as the spirit of a human being.  It is powerful, unique, unpredictable, and resides in an unknown place.
Rainbow Bridge Utah Hiking
Herman’s brother, Eric, is the lead horse packer on CFI trips that travel on the north side of Navajo Mountain on the Rainbow Trail to Rainbow Bridge.

The area surrounding Rainbow Bridge is a minimalist landscape that discards all but the essential.  One focuses on the elements of survival— water, food, shelter, companionship, and beauty— and the mind is freed from distraction, immersed in a profound silence.  Faced with this, it becomes easier to be aware of the spirit of both the place and that which resides in ourselves.

The Navajo, no doubt, smile at the Anglo visitors who constantly struggle to explain the mystery and power that cloaks Rainbow Bridge, knowing the moment we were able to pin down these forces they would likely dissipate and be lost.  They accept that there are places that cannot be captured by words, pictures, or video cameras, but only are absorbed through a personal connection to a deep place.  By not asking WHY, there is greater potential to directly confront and learn from the earth’s mysteries.
Rainbow Bridge Hiking with Packstock

One Heck of a Hike - by Doug Haag

If this sounds interesting to you, contact:  Canyonlands Field Institute, PO Box 68, Moab, Utah 84532; ph: 435-259-7750; website:  www.canyonlandsfieldinst.org

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